Four Dishes After Sushi and Ramen
When a traveler arrives at Tokyo Station and is asked, "What will you eat now?" most answer sushi or ramen. Of course, that's correct. But Japan's culinary depth doesn't stop there. Behind the steam, dashi dances; fish glazed with charcoal fire puffs up; cabbage and flour aroma waft from teppan; and stories of the sea and land are layered on white rice in donburi. This article guides you through four dishes—oden, grilled eel, okonomiyaki, and donburi—as a next bite of Japan, from historical and cultural backgrounds to how to experience them in different regions, in storytelling form. By the end, you'll be reaching for chopsticks.
Four Keys to Unlock Japan's Flavors
Understanding Japanese cuisine involves four keywords: "dashi" (broth), "charcoal fire," "flour-based foods," and "donburi culture." Dashi, made from bonito flakes and kelp, forms the umami backbone, wrapping travelers in warmth and aroma from street stalls to kaiseki. Binchotan charcoal emits far-infrared rays that steam fish to fluffy perfection and give a fragrant char. Flour-based foods, born during post-war shortages, symbolize wisdom in satisfying hunger and happiness from minimal ingredients. Donburi culture allows a variety of ingredients and sauces to be freely painted on rice, creating Japan's fast food in a single, quick dish. Each of the upcoming dishes is deeply connected to one of these four keys.
Oden—Five Scenes Traveling Through Broth
When you break a simmered daikon radish with chopsticks, broth spills out like snowflakes. Oden is a dish that encapsulates "little Japan" within a pot. Originating from Edo-period dengaku (tofu skewered and grilled with miso), it became street food in the late Edo to Meiji era. In Kansai, ingredients are slowly soaked in clear kelp broth; in Kanto, they are prepared with bonito broth and soy sauce, resulting in regional flavor differences.
In Tokyo, you’ll find dark, caramelized daikon, hanpen (fish cake), and chewy chikuwa. At night, the steam mingles with salarymen’s hot sake, symbolizing winter in the city. Osaka and Kyoto serve lighter, translucent broth with simmered beef tendons and octopus, with refined kelp umami and sometimes yuzu pepper instead of mustard.
In Shizuoka, black hanpen skewers topped with bonito powder are popular, enjoyed with beer at street stalls. In Kanazawa, winter ingredients like wheat gluten, shellfish, and seasonal crabs create a "crab face" dish, embodying the joy of short winter days. Nagoya’s oden features red miso broth with konnyaku and eggs, offering a sweet and savory richness.
Oden peaks from November to March. The classic trio of daikon, eggs, and local ingredients is a safe choice. Tasting the broth and ingredients reveals the local climate and history.
Grilled Eel—Two Regional Flavors of Charcoal and Sauce
In Edo, eel was eaten during summer Doyo as a stamina food. Craftsmen quickly fillet live eel, skewer it, dip in a secret sauce, and grill over charcoal. In Kanto, the eel is first grilled plain, then steamed, and glazed again, softening bones and fat for a melt-in-your-mouth texture.
Heading west by Shinkansen, eel is split open and grilled directly over strong charcoal without steaming. In Osaka and Kyoto, the eel is grilled directly, with crispy skin and tender interior, coated with a sweet sauce that enhances aroma. The same ingredients yield different textures—fluffy in Kanto, crispy in Kansai.
In Aichi, "hitsumabushi" offers a unique experience: chopped grilled eel mixed with rice, enjoyed in three ways—plain, with condiments, and with broth or tea poured over. Lake Hamana in Shizuoka is a major eel breeding area, producing fatty, flavorful eel.
Prices range from 3,000 to 5,000 yen for a bowl; courses can exceed 7,000 yen, reflecting craftsmanship. When ordering, specify Kanto or Kansai style; this also sparks conversation. Choose reputable farms for sustainability.
Okonomiyaki—Joy on the Iron Plate
Thin batter with cabbage sizzles as pork fat drips. Sitting at the teppan, you watch the chef’s performance. Originating from post-war street food, okonomiyaki involves mixing flour, water, and ingredients, then cooking on a griddle. Osaka-style mixes everything into a fluffy pancake, topped with sauce, mayonnaise, seaweed, and bonito flakes.
In Hiroshima, layers are built: thin batter, cabbage, noodles, and pork, pressed into a "mille-feuille" style. Toppings vary with ingredients like soba or udon. Enjoying okonomiyaki is year-round, especially in winter when cabbage is sweet. In Osaka, start with "butatama" (pork and egg); in Hiroshima, try "soba" style. Sitting at the counter, hearing the sizzling and smelling the aroma, then slicing and eating directly from the teppan, is the best way.
Donburi—A Mini Universe in a Bowl
Donburi, with toppings on plain rice, symbolizes Japan’s quick-eating culture. Originating from Edo street stalls, with variations like tempura don, unadon, and oyakodon, regional styles developed over time.
In Hakodate, fresh seafood like uni, ikura, and crab create a jewel-like seafood don. In Niigata, thinly pounded pork cutlets with sweet soy sauce form tarekatsu don. Fukui’s "Yoroppaken" offers hearty sauce-katsu don, with freshly fried cutlets in rich sauce. Nagoya’s miso katsu don features thick miso sauce blending with crispy fried pork.
Prices range from around 1,000 to 2,000 yen; seafood bowls can be more expensive with premium ingredients. When ordering, choose the bowl named after the restaurant or customize toppings by asking for recommendations.
Comparing Flavors Turns Travel Into a Journey
To experience the flavors of east and west in three days: start in Tokyo with dark soy oden and steamed eel; the next morning, take the Shinkansen to Osaka for comparison—kelp broth oden and direct-grilled eel, then enjoy okonomiyaki. A circuit through Chubu includes Nagoya’s miso oden and katsu don, then Shizuoka’s oden and eel from Lake Hamana, ending in Kanazawa with crab oden and seafood don. The Setouchi route is also appealing: Hiroshima okonomiyaki, followed by udon and donburi in Okayama and Kagawa, then Kobe’s Kansai-style eel. Each route’s short travel time and flavor contrast enrich the experience.
Planning Is as Important as Flavor
Oden is often street food or casual taverns, usually without reservations, but limited menus like Kanazawa’s crab face should be visited before sold out. Eel restaurants often require reservations, especially around Doyo. Okonomiyaki’s popular spots are quick-turnover, but if you prefer counter seats, visit with a small group. Donburi shops at morning markets or stations open early; seafood depends on weather, so check social media for updates. Payment methods vary; cash is recommended at markets and stalls. If you avoid animal-based or seafood broths, inquire about vegetarian options beforehand.
Useful Phrases for Travelers
Dashi (broth): "だし" (dashi) Kabayaki (grilled eel): "かばやき" (kabayaki) Gyusuji (beef tendon): "ぎゅうすじ" (gyusuji) Okonomiyaki with soba: "そば入り" (soba-iri) Oyako-don (chicken and egg bowl): "親子丼" (oyako-don) Saying these five phrases will make ordering much easier. If unsure, point to a picture and say, "これをください" (kore o kudasai—"Please give me this"), and Japanese staff will usually help.
Deepening Your Journey Through Comparison
Different cooking methods and climates create diverse expressions even with the same ingredients: dark and clear broths, fluffy and crispy eel, mixed and layered textures, sweet and soy sauces. A journey through these four dishes offers the shortest route to understanding Japan’s culinary depth. With a plan for your next holiday—city, schedule, and appetite—you can start traversing Japan with your palate. Grab your chopsticks and go.