Place of worship • Sekigahara, 関ケ原町 Sekigahara, Fuwa District, Gifu 503-1501, Japan
The Battle of Sekigahara, known as one of the largest battles in Japanese history, involved an estimated 150,000 to 200,000 soldiers. The place that now conveys the traces of this intense battle is East Kubizuka. Located near JR Sekigahara Station and surrounded by broadleaf forests, this area has become a tranquil sanctuary where the sadness of battle and respect for samurai intersect.
Passing through the large vermillion gate, you'll find giant Sudajii and Ginkgo trees that are over 400 years old. These trees spread their branches as if to embrace the souls of the fallen, with roots deeply entrenched in the ground. The center of East Kubizuka was said to once have a circular mound with a circumference of 9 meters, though it has disappeared over time.
What is remarkable about East Kubizuka is that, by the order of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the fallen were buried without distinguishing between the Eastern and Western forces. As the victor, Ieyasu chose to honor the samurai regardless of sides. This act serves as a precious historical evidence conveying the spirit of the samurai from the Sengoku period.
In the Battle of Sekigahara, not only the samurai who stood on the front lines but also the women who played important roles behind the scenes were involved. Among them, the custom known as 'head makeup' is particularly intriguing. This practice of cleaning and painting the heads taken in battle with ohaguro (black teeth dye) preserved the final dignity of the fallen samurai and was an important task that led to better rewards for the surviving samurai.
Visiting East Kubizuka is not merely historical tourism. It is a valuable opportunity to stand on the site of an intense battle that took place over 400 years ago and to touch upon the thoughts of the people of that era. What do the souls of samurai, who were remembered without distinction of foe or ally, convey to us living in modern times? East Kubizuka is a place that profoundly makes us think about the value of peace and human dignity.
When you visit Sekigahara, make sure to stop by East Kubizuka. Under the quietly standing ancient trees, listen to the weight of Japanese history and the thoughts of the people resting there.